Before entering or exiting the ocean, observe the flow of the waves. Try to see if there is a pattern of bigger waves that roll in one after another, and take note of the timing between them.
Timing Of Waves:
Waves travel in groups, and in shallow water these groups are called sets.
A set generally has 3-8 waves in it, although this can vary up to 20 waves. Sets appear as often as every few minutes to once every 30 minutes or more, depending on how far they have traveled to reach the shore.
How To Duck Dive:
The easiest and safest way to get through waves is to duck dive underneath them.
Duck diving follows the natural flow of water under the wave, and if done correctly, will pop you out effortlessly on the other side.
To duck dive, follow these steps:
Just before the wave approaches you, take a deep breath
Dive under the wave, staying deep if possible (watch out for sand-banks)
Glide through the water
Emerge on the other side of the wave